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The smarter way to your next vehicle.

MatchMyVehicle is your car-shopping command center: search every major site with one set of filters, decode VINs and check recalls with free government data, and compare your candidates side-by-side in one table.

1
Search everywhereSet filters once — open pre-filled searches on 9 marketplaces.
2
Pin & comparePaste listings into your garage — the best deal gets flagged automatically.
3
Inspect & negotiateCheck recalls by VIN and use days-on-lot as your leverage.
Step 2 — Verify the Vehicle

Decode the VIN, see recalls instantly

Both panels run on free U.S. government (NHTSA) data — decode a VIN on the left and open recall campaigns appear on the right, without leaving the page.

VIN — 17 characters 0 / 17

No letters I, O, or Q appear in a real VIN. Found on the dashboard, door jamb, and title.

Decoding…

Open recalls

Decode a VIN and any open recall campaigns for that year, make, and model will appear here — straight from NHTSA.
What the VIN can and cannot tell you The decoder reads what was built into the car at the factory — engine, trim, plant, model year. It knows nothing about what happened afterward, which is what a paid history report covers, and even that only shows what somebody actually reported. Read the VIN & history report guide →
Step 3 — Compare Across Sites

Your comparison garage

Paste a listing link to auto-fill what the link reveals, add the price and mileage you see, and MatchMyVehicle flags the lowest price, lowest miles, best value — and the longest-listed car, which is the one most open to negotiation.

Price and mileage come from what you see on the listing — sites can't be read automatically without their permission. CarGurus shows "days at dealership" on every listing.

⚡ One-click add from any listing

Drag this button to your bookmarks bar once. Then, while viewing any car listing, click it — MatchMyVehicle opens with the car pre-filled from the listing page's own published data (most sites include year, make, model, price, and mileage in machine-readable form). Review, add days-on-lot if shown, and save.

＋ Add to MatchMyVehicle

This runs only in your own browser, only when you click it, on the page you're viewing — nothing is collected automatically.

YearMakeModelSourcePriceDealer feesOut-the-doorMileage$ / 1k mi remainingDays listedLink
Garage is empty — add the first car you're considering.
Before You Sign

The lot-walk checklist

Before you visit

Body & frame

Test & negotiate

Paperwork

Want the full walk-around? This checklist is the short version you can tick off in the lot. The complete guide explains what each item actually tells you — why bad light hides bodywork, what mismatched tires say about the last owner, and what rust in the engine bay reveals about where the car spent its winters. Read the full inspection guide →
Why days-on-lot is your leverage A car sitting 60+ days costs the dealer money every day it doesn't sell. CarGurus prints "days at dealership" on every listing; for other sites, Google the VIN in quotes and check dates on the oldest results. Log it in the garage above — the longest-listed car gets flagged as most negotiable. Read the full days-on-lot guide →
Know Before You Sign

Dealer doc fee by state

Almost every dealer charges a documentation ("doc") fee on top of the sticker price — but the amount is all over the map, and some states cap it by law while others don't. Pick your state to see what's typical and whether there's a legal limit, so you know when a fee is out of line.

How to use this The doc fee is negotiable in practice even where it's not capped — if a dealer quotes a fee well above your state's typical range, that's a line to push back on, or a reason to fold it into your out-the-door total in the garage above. Figures are general estimates that change over time and by dealer; always confirm the exact fee in writing before you sign. Read the full doc-fee guide →